Hemmer.



A. THOMAS.

HEMMER.

APPLICATION HLED APR. 9. 1918.

i ,Z-TFQJWB Patented Sept. 1?, 191a 75 NVENTOR 2 4 g g 0' j QMMMQ ATTORNEY 3o eeive one shank (Fig.

depending flange 11.

WETED AUGUST THOMAS, 9F t3;

Specification of Letters Eatent.

r, straw ll atentecl Sept. N; 3918.

Application filed April 9, 1918. Serial No. 227,449.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, Aoonstr THOMAB, a citizen of the German lhnpire, and a residentof Jersey City, in the count v of Hudson and 5 State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Heininers, of whichthe following is a .iPGCli'lC-lltlfill- This invention relates to a henuner of novel construction. which is so constituted 10 that while forming the hem. an elastic wehhing under tension is simultaneously introduced into said hem, so as to form a shirred elastic top for a skirt or other garment.

In the accompanying drawing:

Figure l is a plan view of a hernniet enr htidying In) invention;

Fiq'. a front elevation;

Fig. 0, ll left hand side elevation;

Fig. l. a section on line l-l Fig. 1;

Fig. 5. a detail of the tension device;

Fig. it illustrates a piece of fabric, having an expansile hem inadehv the hennner, the figure showing the hem stretched taut, for the sake of greater UltfllllQSS,al1tl Fig. 7, a cross section on line 'i'-7 Fig. 6.

To the sewing machine table. is. adapted to be attached a bed plate 1. hy, means of a clamp screw 2. Y The plate is provided with a pair of forwardly extending eyes 3 that rel of an angle bar, the other shank 5 of which extends along the left hand edge of plate 1. Angle bar .4, 5 is from right to left, or in the direction of the axis of. shank 4, the bar being normally re- 35 tracted by a s nlng 6 one end of which is secured to shun 5, while the other end is so cured to one of the eyes 3. A stop 7, on shank 4, which is adapted to engage the other of said eyes, limits the stroke of the bar.

40 The, parts thus far described, constitute more particulm'ly the means for slidahly and. reinovahly securing the henn'ner proper to the sewing machine bed.

The hennncr proper consists of a plate 8 l) which has a curved hack 9 tapering oil from the front toward the rear, while at the upper edge of said back, the plate is bent to form a grooved guide 10, that opens to- Avard the left, and here provided with a From plate 8, there extends laterally a tubular casing 12, which forms part thereof, and is adapted to he slipped over shank 5 of angle bar 4, 5 so as to removahly mount the hammer on its Securing device.

Grooved guide l0 receives the right hand slidable end of a jaw 13, flanged as at ld while the left hand endv of the jaw is curved iisat 15} to constitute a folder. By the nieansdescrihed. the jaw may he slid from right to left along plate 8, the length of its stroke being determined by the width of guide 10, and being checked by the engagement of flange 14 with flange ll. When the jaw is in its advanced position, it may likewise be thrown up so as to raise-its folder 1.5 oil plate 8, during which operation flange 14 constitutes a fulcrum that permits the necessary pivotal movement oi? the jaw. h 'springgihnvl ich is secured at one of its ends to a liaiidle li df jaw 13, and at its other end to a post 18 of casingl'l tends to normally draw the jaw toward the right, or into its retracted position (Fig. l) Into the curved hack 9 of plate 8, there enters a flat nozzle 19, which serves for the introduction of the elastic webbing or insert 20 into the lie-in.v This nozzle is likewise adapted to be encompassed bythe folder 1;) when the latter is in its retracted position, and delivers the webbin 20 through its mouth :21, between .said b Nozzle 19, is secured to casing 12 of: plate 8, h v means of a rod 22 having a rearwardly heat end 23 that constitutes a guide. Upon this guide is movable, a friction brake, or tension device 24; coiled as at .25 to encompass the guide, and projecting with its flat operative end or blade :1 distance into ing end of nozzle 19. By means of this guide the elastic 20., is so held within the nozzle, that though it may be fed therethrough, the advance of the webbing through the nozzle will be under tension, so that the webbing will become stretched while. being fed together with the fabric.

Inoperation, jaw 13 is pulled out, and turned up, the fabric 26 to he hemmed is folded along hack 9 and folder 15 to form the required tubular case at the edge of the fabric, the elastic 20 is threaded into nozzle 19, brake :24; is set, and jaw 13 is turned down and caused to be retracted by its spring 16. As the sewing operation starts, angle bar l-,-5 together with the hemnier proper is first drawn to the left and thence retracted so that the needle 27 will form a cross seam 28 by means of which the end of the elastic is secured to the fabric. As the sewing continues, a line of stitches 29 will be formed Within the doubled section of-the goods, and along the elastic, through the hem 30, the latter being during this operation engaged the receivack and folder.

by the feeder and the presser foot 31 as usual. During this operation, the feeder cooperating with brake 24 will subject the elastic to a tension, under which it is continuously hold while the sewing goes on. When the beam has been finished, the hemnicr is again reciprocated laterally, to form a second cross seam 32 which fixes the elastic in its distended position, While forming the cross seams 28 and 32, the pressert'oot 31 is swung up so that the fabric is not carried along by the feed (log, the necessary transverse movement of the fabric being 'efiected manually. It will be seen that the heminer constructed as described, will form a hem and will simultaneously incase a (llS- tended elastic ,ijvithm the hem in a simple and reliable manner, while furthermore, the

degree to which the elastic is stretched, is under the full control of the operator. The device is of simple construction, can be readily manipulated, and is reliable in operetion.

I claim: I

l. A. hemmer comprising a plate having a curved back, a jaw slidably and pivotally secured to said plate and a nozzle adapted to enter the aw.

2. A. hei'nmer comprising a plate having a curved back and a grooved guide, a jaw slidably and pivotally engaging said guide and having a curved section cooperating with said back. and means for introducing curved section.

3. A hennner comprising a plate, a jaw movable relatively to said plate, a nozzle, and a brake engaging said nozzle.

4. A heminer comprising a slidable incinber, a plateadaptcd to be. mounted thereon, a jaw slidably and pivotally secured to said plate, and means for introducing an elastic webbingbetween the plate and jaw.

5. A hcmmer comprising a plate having a curved back, a jaw sliclably and pivotally secured to said plate, a nozzle, a rod, and a brake slidable on said rod and engaging said nozzle.

6. A hennner comprising a base plate, an angle bar slidably engaging said plate, a second plate hai ing a casing that is mounted on said bar, said second plate having a curved back and a grooved guide, a curved jaw slidably and pivotally engaging said guide, a spring engaging said jaw, a nozzle projecting; between said second named plate and jaw, and a brake engaging said nozzle.

AUGUST Tl-lUMAS.

an elastic webbing between said back and i 

